A DAY IN LITTLE HABANA

La Pequeña Habana (little Habana); it’s a place frozen in time!  There are new faces in the neighborhood; a new influx of Central Americans are moving into the area; new restaurants with another type of cuisine and different cords of music are floating in the air.   The Cuban immigrants that arrived between the 1950’s and 1960’s are slowly disappearing and a new wave of immigrants has taken their places.  I enjoy visiting the old locations; Barber shops; Record Stores; ice cream and Churro parlors; Restaurants and Bakeries.  A typical Saturday would start something like this…. Hey…Back! We need to take a step back,  in order to understand the area, the people, or the food.  First, you have to understand their soul; I mean the music of the 1950’s, yes, music of the artists of Cuba, Puerto Rico and Mexico.  The Boleros “Torch Songs”; songs that would make you cry, suffer, hurt, full of love and treason.  Songs that will show you what real love is all about; tears; despair and broken hearts, song’s with lyrics like this:

                        “TIEMBLAS”

Tiemblas,

            You tremble

Cada vez que me ves yo se que tiemblas

            Every time you see me, I know you tremble

No hay misterio de ti, que no entienda

            There is not a mystery of yours, I don’t understand

Por qué tratas de ocultar …

            Why do you try to hide…

Que soy parte de ti?

            I am part of you?

                                                                                Tito Rodrigue
“HAMBRE”
Dentro de mi alma oigo el grito
In my soul I can hear a shout                                 
De un corazón anhelante
Of a longing heart
Que repite a cada instante
That constantly repeats
Su deseo de querer
Its desire to love
Y en mis noches de delirio
And in my delirious nights
Siento correr por mis venas
I feel running through my veins
Un deseo que me quema
A burning decire
Y que me obliga a gritar
That forces me to scream
¡HAMBRE!!…
Hunger!
De sentir el fuego ardiente
To feel the burning fire
De un amor que sea inclemente
Of a love that is not merciful
Que me queme las entrañas
That will burn me inside

Even though the songs talk about despair and vengeance, these are the songs with which people fell in love, danced, sang, hummed and cried to.  Now having this in mind, let’s go to “Little Habana”. Let’s celebrate life, remember the sorrows and fall in love all over again!

Going into a bakery (well this is a very loose term because it has a bakery section; a restaurant; a takeout section; and at the front of the building, there is an outdoor section with a window, where they sell coffee) either in Little Havana, San Juan or the real Havana. It is like going into a wonderland - so many pastries, cakes, breads, sandwiches, nuggets and candies. Before you arrive to the bakery you can smell the bread; the air is permeated with that nutty sweet smell.  My typical morning breakfast order consists of Café con Leche (coffee with milk), Tostadas en Pan Criollo (toast made with baguette bread) and two Croquetas de jamòn (two ham croquettes).  Enjoying a simple morning breakfast, the smell of the coffee, the music and the heated political discussion in the background, yes I feel at home!  There is no such thing as reading your news paper in silence; it is an open discussion.  The man at the far west corner of the restaurant will make a comment on the news and a well animated chorus will respond.   If you pay attention to what’s happening outside you will notice that the TV is playing the news while a group of men are playing dominoes and discussing, arguing and talking back to the TV, without missing the rhythm of the game.   It is typical to have a window (this is an open area in which they sell coffee to the public)…standing room only!  The same individuals will be standing at the window for hours enjoying a tiny little cup of extra strong espresso coffee. I believe they just wet their lips and enjoy the coffee forever and ever.  Once in a while a bypasser will yell out “Is the Dictator dead yet?” and one of the guys playing Domino will respond “Hopefully today!” and that will revive the heated political discussion.  We don’t have a “Fiddler on the Roof” but we do have the Guitarist on Calle Ocho delighting us with the entire repertoire of the songs of the 50’s and 60’. Some will sing along, others will dance in their seats and the bolder will actually stand up and immerse themselves in the music.

When I travel I prefer to visit the off-the-path sites. I enjoy hanging out with the people that work, live and breathe in the area.  South Florida is a very transient area but has very distinct neighborhoods, full of personality and soul. As I stated before; I call it music!  It holds the identity of a country, the soul of its people and the way they view the world.  It is a single point of reference that unifies the people of a specific area; from rich to poor; no matter the color of your skin or your creed.  Even if you don’t realize, it is a single voice that tells your story to the world.

“HAMBRE”

            Hunger!De besar con ansia loca

            To kiss with demented eagernessQue me muerdan en la boca

            To be bitten on the lipsHasta hacérmela sangrar

            Until you make it blead
¡HAMBRE!!…

            Hunger!De un amor que me calcine

            From a love that will burn meQue con besos asesine

            And kisses that will kill Mi deseo y mi ansiedad

            My desires and my anxiousness

Fried Cow - Vaca Frita recipe

 

2 pounds flank steak
2 whole bay leaves
6 black pepper corns
3 tablespoons dry sherry
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium yellow onions, sliced
lemon wedges
2 medium green bell peppers, sliced

 

Seasoning rub
1 teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon onion powder
2 teaspoon salt

 

Place the steak in a cover pot with just enough water to cover. Add the bay leaves and peppercorns. Simmer covered until tender, about 1 ½ hours. Allow the steak to cool in the liquid, covered. It's common to place the entire covered pot in the fridge and proceed to frying the next day.

 

Mix the dry spices.

 

Cut the meat across the grain into serving size pieces. Pound with a meat mallet until increased in size by 25-50%. Rub each piece with a bit of the dry rub and splash with dry sherry.

 

Heat the olive oil in a skillet or griddle. Fry each piece of meat until it barely browns. Fry the onions and peppers also. Place all on a plate with the lemon wedges as a garnish.

Corn Fritters  

Frituritas de Maiz tierno, or fresh corn fritters

1 cup fresh corn kernels, ground to a pulp or 1 can of cream corn and ½ a can of corn kernels, ground to a pulp
1 egg, well beaten

½ teaspoon  vinegar
1/2 tsp anis seed, ground or pounded w/mortar and pestle
5 Tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
Oil for frying

Mix all the ingredients. If too liquid, add just a small amount of all-purpose flour and mix well. Drop in hot (375oF) frying oil a spoonful at a time.

Yautia Fritters (Frituras de Yautia) aka Malanga aka taro root

1 pound of Yautia
1 egg
1 clove of garlic
1 teaspoon of parsley
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon of vinegar

Wash and peel the yautia. Shred with a cheese shredder (grater).  Mix the rest of the ingredients into the shredded yautia batter.

Heat oil, when the oil is hot drop mix in by tablespoons. fry until golden brown.

Cuban Hamburger (Frita) recipe  

1 lb. lean ground beef

1 egg

1/2 tsp. paprika

1/4 cup milk

1 tsp mayo

2 tsp ketchup

½ tsp Worcestershire sauce

1/2 cup bread crumbs

1/4 tsp black pepper

2 tsp. salt

1 tsp ground onion

Soak bread crumbs in milk and mix all ingredients well.  Shape into small balls, place in refrigerator for about 2 hours to let the meat marinate with other ingredients.  Lightly grease grill or frying pan.  Fry meat, press to shape like hamburgers.  Serve in hamburger buns.

Serving tip: For better results, cut the bun with a large round cookie cutter, spread with ketchup, sprinkle with chopped onions if desired, serve with shoestring potatoes. 

serves 4

Guava Cheese Flan

1 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
5 eggs
1 can guava shells (1/4 of the syrup)

8 ounces (1 package) cream cheese, softened
1 tablespoon Vanilla Extract

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place sugar and water in 9-inch round cake pan. Stir until sugar is slightly dissolved. Place pan on stove on medium heat. Cook sugar about 10 minutes, without stirring, until sugar turns a golden to golden brown color. Use oven mitts to swirl pan, coating bottom and sides with caramel. Place pan on wire rack to cool and harden caramel slightly.

Meanwhile, place remaining ingredients in blender container; cover. Blend until smooth.

Pour mixture over cooled and hardened caramel in pan. Cover with foil. Place a large shallow baking pan in oven. Place cake pan in baking pan. Carefully pour hot water into baking pan so it comes halfway up side of cake pan. Bake 1 hour or until knife inserted in center comes out clean.

Remove cake pan from water bath. Cool on wire rack. Carefully loosen sides of custard from pan with a knife. Cover and refrigerate 3 hours or until chilled. May be chilled overnight.

To unmold, invert pan onto a large plate

  

Serves 8