NO ROOM IN THE INN

The island of Puerto Rico is about 35 miles wide by 100 miles long filled with fun and excitement.  People ask me if we got bored in such a small place; and my answer has always been …absolutely NO!!!  It is not the place; it is only the imagination and the desire to do something exciting and different.  If you think about it, the average human being spends its life in a square mile radius.   You shop, you go to school, you work, you visit your friends, you go to your bakery, or pump gas.  We are creatures of habit and we like to be recognized and we like to have some type of relationship with the people we share our everyday routine.  

My neighborhood in Puerto Rico “Puerto Nuevo” was an extension of the family nucleus.   Our neighbors had seen us grow up; the Nuñez to our left and the Vegas across the street; were like uncles, aunts, mothers, fathers or cousins.  I have always referred to Ms. Mary Vega as my aunt!  She is like my mother’s sister; she was her shopping and restaurant adventure twin.  Our two families would always go on the weekend adventure trips to the beach, restaurants in the country, to our adjoining country houses, or to an undisclosed secret location…

On this particular weekend Don (Mr.) Vega had just purchased a smacking new, top of the line, luxury, golden Lincoln Continental.  It was the size of a boat…huge!  That meant road trip…  The night before I spent inspecting the two kitchens…. yes, if we were going on a weekend excursion it meant that the snacks and lunch for the picnic would have to be prepared the night before.  My mother would prepare a portion and my aunt would be in charge of the rest.  Dad and Don Vega were in charge of the refreshments, transportation and room and board.  Mom was preparing a baked ham and potato salad and my aunt was preparing a “Pernil” (roasted pork) and Arroz con gandules (rice with pigeon peas).  Everything would be packed and ready for the trip.  Miriam, Vivian, Wanda, Marilyn and Nancy will be a click, Zonia and I will hang together and Puchi … he would be the liaison, the ambassador, the person that would go from group to group.  Too old to hang out with us and too young to be with the girls; we could call him the Ping-Pong ball. 

We left early in the morning. Breakfast was meat pastries from the bakery, recently baked bread smothered with butter and coffee, milk or orange juice; it was breakfast on the go!  We had a rough idea of what we were going to do but the plans were as fluid as water.  As Dad or Don Vega heard of new locations our plans would change.

That day we stopped at  “Guajataca” for lunch; Close to Quebradillas, home to the Guajataca Forest in Puerto Rico, there’s Guajataca Beach. This is a surfer’s beach. If you’re not into surfing, you can still enjoy the beach.  Guajataca Beach is perfect for tanning or strolling. And a tip – this beach is excellent for shelling! You’ll be amazed at the variety of nice shells found here. Get on the beach early, though.

Because of the way the shoreline is angled into the ocean, waves bring up many shells that would normally flow along with offshore currents. This setting makes it perfect for things to wash up on shore for the taking. Of course you want to leave anything that is living. But you can find some real gems here at Guajataca.

We picked a pavilion near the beach to have our lunch and enjoy the waves.  Zonia and I walked around the shoreline to pick shells and the others enjoyed the water; without wetting their hair; all in the name of beauty!  We left the beach and visited my Dad’s best friend Enrique Cruz Jimenez in Isabela, we spent the rest of the day at their farm.  The night was rapidly approaching and Jimenez mentioned that on a Moonless night like this the Bioluminescent Bay “Las Pargueras” would be beautiful!  So Dad and Don Vega packed the cars and on the way we went. 

We arrived to the Bay around 11:30 PM, Dad and Don Vega went to look for rooms at the hotels and they found a ‘no show’,  but the hotel was not able to release the room until midnight.  It was almost midnight and there was only one boat that would be able to take us to the bioluminescent area.  So they rented the boat and off we went in to the bay. I believe this is the first  and  only time my Mother was brave enough to get on a motor boat.  The trip was something like this:

                Mom : Bobby ,don’t leave my sight

                Bobby: I want to see the water

                Mom : Wanda , sit down

                Mom : Bobby, don’t leave my sight

                Mom : Miriam, Vivian hands in the boat

                Mom : Bobby, don’t leave my sight

                Bobby: I want to see the water

                Mom : Zonia, Where are you

                Zonia: I am here right next to you

                Mom : Bobby, don’t leave my sight

                Bobby: I want to see the water

                Bobby: I want to see the water

                Mom: Ocasio, keep an eye on the girls

                Mary: Tere, you need a beer

                Tere, I have High Blood Pressure, I can’t…. Maybe just a sip….

                Bobby: I want to see the water

And suddenly the only thing you could hear was a unified WOW!!!!!!! Look at the water! Its neon green and the lights were coming from the bottom of the Bay; the more you agitated the water, the brighter and more intense was the light.  The fish looked unreal; like comets rushing through the sky.  Your hand in the water would light up like a neon poster under a black light; and once again WOW, WOW, WOW!!!

It was 1:00 o’clock in the morning; there were a billion stars on this moonless night and every drop of water turned into a neon light.  We were so wet, splashing and throwing buckets of water into the air, moving the water with a stick, just in complete communion with nature.   Just absorbing one of the wonders of the world.  There is no class room that could replicate this experience.

And now our return back to shore!

                Mom: Bobby, don’t leave my sight

                Bobby: I want to see the water

                Mom: Wanda, sit down

                Mom: Bobby, don’t leave my sight

                Mom: Miriam, Vivian hands in the boat

And so on…

As a point of reference for those that have never experienced a Bioluminescent Bay and were not able to go to the movies to see a PG13 movie in 1980; let’s remember the Brooke Shields, Christopher Atkins movie “Blue Lagoon”; swimming during the night in a lagoon and their bodies turned into luminescent bodies of light.  The luminescence is caused by micro-organisms (din flagellates) which glow whenever the water is disturbed, leaving a trail of neon blue. A combination of factors creates the necessary conditions for bioluminescence: red mangrove trees surround the water (the organisms feed off the dead leaves); a complete lack of modern development around the bay; the water is cool enough and deep enough; and a small channel to the ocean keeps the din flagellates in the bay. This small channel is the result of Spanish ships' attempts to choke off the bay from the ocean's waters. The Spanish believed that the bioluminescence they first encountered was the work of the Devil ('El Diablo') and tried to block the ocean's waters from entering the bay by dropping huge boulders in the channel. The Spanish only succeeded in preserving and increasing the luminescence.  It has been documented that eleven Bioluminescent Bay exists in the World.  Some of them are seasonal and others are year round.  Puerto Rico has a total of seven documented sites, three are permanent (La Parguera, Bahia De Mosquito and Cabezas de San Juan) and four appear and disappear in accordance with the season and the tide.   Jamaica and Korea has two other year round Bioluminescent Bays.  The Bioluminescent Bay at “Bahia de Mosquitos”, is perhaps the world's largest and brightest.  Puerto Rico is one of the only places on the planet where you can depend on it every evening at three different protected bays.

Now, back to my story and the reason for the title of this blog!  As I stated before Dad and Don Vega were in charged to secure the hotel rooms but… “The Inn was full”; the room that was supposedly a no show, became a show! And it was too late to drive back to San Juan.  So we did the next logical thing… we slept in the cars….well not really slept, we giggled and laughed all night long!  All of the seats were turned down in the station wagon and it converted into a huge bed and the continental seats were like big sofas.  I slept on the floor of the back seat.  Dad and Don Vega kept guard during the night….well they played dominos and talked.    We as human beings are built like building blocks and each block houses an experience.  My parents and my immediate family permitted us to collect sufficient blocks to build a castle.   My neighbors will always be part of my family and part of who I am today; no matter if they are living far or near me they are always in my essence.

MOM’S POTATO SALAD (PUERTO RICAN STYLE)
Servings 8-10
3 pounds potatoes, peeled, diced, and cooked
1 cup mayonnaise

3 table spoons of Thousand Island dressing
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
3 eggs, hard-cooked and finely chopped
2 medium apples, peeled, cored, and diced

4 strips of bacon crumbs
1 6-ounce jar pimientos, drained and chopped
1/2 cup green peas, cooked

1/2 cup cubed carrots, cooked

1 tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1-2 tsp. Apple vinegar
5 garlic cloves roasted and mashed or boil them with the potatoes

Salt and pepper to taste

combine all of the ingredients except the peas in a serving bowl. Garnish with the peas.

DAD’S BAKED HAM (PUERTO RICAN STYLE)

Ingredients:

·         (8-pound) 33%-less-sodium smoked, fully cooked ham half ( I prefer boneless so I can have it sliced and tied)

·         2  teaspoons  whole cloves

·         Pineapple rings and liquid

·         Maraschino cherries and liquid

·         Cooking spray

·         2  cups  Grape Juice

·         1 cup dry white wine

·         2 cup dark brown sugar

·         teaspoon Dijon mustard

·         maple syrup

·         allspice

·         Cinnamon stick

·         Cloves

·          pepper

Preparation:

Place ham in a large Dutch oven or stockpot. Cover with water to 2 inches above ham; cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Drain

Glaze:

Boil until syrup is formed

·         8  whole cloves

·         Pineapple liquid

·         Maraschino liquid

·         2  cups  Grape Juice

·         1 cup dry white wine

·         2 cups dark brown sugar

·         teaspoon Dijon mustard

·         ½ cup maple syrup

·         ½ tsp. allspice

·         2 Cinnamon stick

·         ¼ tsp. black pepper

Preheat oven to 325°.

Trim fat and rind from ham. Score outside of ham in a diamond pattern; stud with cloves. Pineapple rings and cherries

 Place ham, skin side down, on pan coated with cooking spray. Brush the ham with the glaze. Cover ham loosely with foil. Bake at 325° for 2 1/2 hours, basting occasionally with remaining glaze.

Remove ham from oven (do not turn oven off); uncover ham. Glaze ham. Bake, uncovered, at 325° for 30 minutes or until a thermometer inserted into thickest portion registers 140°. Place ham on serving dish, cut strings; cover and let stand 10 minutes before serving.

MOM’S ARROZ CON GANDULES

2 cups short grain rice (rinsed) - long grain will work too
4-5 cups of hot water - appx.
½ cup ready made sofrito
16 ounce can of gandules (cooked green pigeon peas)
2 tablespoons of alcaparrado (capers and olives mixed together)
1 packet of Sazon with achiote

Cooking Ham or salted pork cut very small and cooked until crisp to taste

Chorizo, butifarra or longaniza (different types of sausages) to taste

1 small onion

Oregano

1 can tomato sauce
3 tablespoons of oil
Salt & pepper to taste

In a medium size caldero add the oil, tomato sauce, alcaparrado, sofrito and sazon. Cook over medium heat for 4 minutes. Add all other ingredients, and enough water to cover the rice 1" above the rice line. Start with 1 teaspoon of salt stir and keep adding and mixing well until you are satisfied with the taste. Bring to a boil and cook over high heat until most of the water is absorbed. Once the water has been absorbed, stir gently from bottom to top - once or twice only, cover and turn the heat down to low.  Cook for 30 minutes or until the rice is tender.

Stirring the rice after it has begun cooking may cause it go get sticky or "amogollao."

Any rice that sticks to the bottom of the pot is called "pegao" and is crispy and tasty and a favorite of all true Puerto Ricans. However, not everyone is skilled is making pegao - it is an art. To make great pegao make sure to use plenty of oil. Cook for about 10 minutes longer so the pegao gets crispy and keep your eye on it. Each time you cook rice - check to see how long it takes to make pegao just the way your family likes it. Finally - if you want a lot of pegao - use a bigger caldero which, of course, will have a larger bottom surface.

 DAD’S Fruit salad

2 c. chunk pineapple

2 Oranges in segments/deveined

2 Mandarin oranges in segments/deveined

1 Grape Fruit in segments/deveined
2 c. water melon balls
2 c. peaches, peeled & sliced
2 c. sliced strawberries
1 c. seedless white grapes
1 fresh pear, peeled & sliced
2 bananas, peeled & sliced
2 oranges, peeled & sliced
Lemon juice
Fruit dressing

Combine all fruits sprinkling lemon juice over fruit as each is prepared. Chill fruits in tight container. Pour fruit dressing over fruit and toss gently when ready to serve.

FRUIT DRESSING:

3/4 c. orange juice
1/4 c. salad oil

1/4 c. amaretto
1 tbsp. sugar
pinch. salt

Pinch black pepper

Combine ingredients. Blend good and chill. Serve on fruit salad.

DOÑA  PRICILAS “EMPANADA GALLEGA” (meat Pie)

A large two-crusted savory pie from Galicia, the Spanish empanada is typically filled with fish or meat, red or green peppers, and lots of onion. Substitute pizza dough if you're pressed for time, though the pastry crust is easy to make. Empanadas are best at room temperature; serve with a mixed salad for dinner.

Yield: 8 servings (serving size: 1 wedge)

Ingredients

·         Pork:

·         2  tablespoons  minced fresh parsley

·         1  tablespoon  Spanish smoked paprika or hot paprika

·         1  tablespoon  extra-virgin olive oil

·         ¼ cup Dry white wine

·         1  teaspoon  dried oregano

·         3  garlic cloves, minced

·         1  pound  pork tenderloin, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips

·         Dough:

·         2 3/4  cups  all-purpose flour

·         1  tablespoon  baking powder

·         1 1/2  teaspoons  salt

·         1/2  cup  water

·         1/4  cup  olive oil

·         1  large egg, lightly beaten

·         Filling:

·         Cooking spray

·         1/4  teaspoon  salt

·         2  cups  thinly sliced sweet onion

·         2  cups  red bell pepper strips

·         1  cup  chopped tomato

·         1/4  cup  chopped Spanish serrano ham or prosciutto (about 1 1/2 ounces)

·         ¼   tablespoons  dry white wine

·         Dash of crumbled thread saffron

·         Remaining Ingredient:

·         1  large egg, lightly beaten

Preparation

To prepare the meat, combine the first 6 ingredients in a large zip-top plastic bag, and add the pork to bag. Seal and marinate in refrigerator 2 hours, turning bag occasionally.

To prepare the dough, lightly spoon flour into dry measuring cups; level with a knife. Combine flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl, stirring with a whisk. Combine the water, the oil, and egg in a medium bowl. Gradually add the oil mixture to flour mixture, stirring just until moist. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface; knead lightly until smooth. Divide dough in half. Cover with plastic; let rest about 30 minutes.

To prepare filling, heat a large nonstick skillet coated with cooking spray over medium heat. Add the pork mixture; sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook 5 minutes or until pork loses its pink color. Add onion and bell pepper; cook 5 minutes. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer 20 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Stir in tomato, ham, wine, and saffron; cook 5 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°.

Working with 1 portion of dough at a time (cover remaining dough to keep from drying), roll each portion into a 13-inch circle on a floured surface. Place 1 portion of dough on a large baking sheet coated with cooking spray. Spoon filling onto dough using a slotted spoon, leaving a 1-inch border around the edge. Place remaining portion of dough over filling. Pinch edges to seal. Cut several slits in top of dough to allow steam to escape. Brush with egg. Bake at 350° for 30 minutes or until golden brown; cool. Cut into wedges.

A DAY IN LITTLE HABANA

La Pequeña Habana (little Habana); it’s a place frozen in time!  There are new faces in the neighborhood; a new influx of Central Americans are moving into the area; new restaurants with another type of cuisine and different cords of music are floating in the air.   The Cuban immigrants that arrived between the 1950’s and 1960’s are slowly disappearing and a new wave of immigrants has taken their places.  I enjoy visiting the old locations; Barber shops; Record Stores; ice cream and Churro parlors; Restaurants and Bakeries.  A typical Saturday would start something like this…. Hey…Back! We need to take a step back,  in order to understand the area, the people, or the food.  First, you have to understand their soul; I mean the music of the 1950’s, yes, music of the artists of Cuba, Puerto Rico and Mexico.  The Boleros “Torch Songs”; songs that would make you cry, suffer, hurt, full of love and treason.  Songs that will show you what real love is all about; tears; despair and broken hearts, song’s with lyrics like this:

                        “TIEMBLAS”

Tiemblas,

            You tremble

Cada vez que me ves yo se que tiemblas

            Every time you see me, I know you tremble

No hay misterio de ti, que no entienda

            There is not a mystery of yours, I don’t understand

Por qué tratas de ocultar …

            Why do you try to hide…

Que soy parte de ti?

            I am part of you?

                                                                                Tito Rodrigue
“HAMBRE”
Dentro de mi alma oigo el grito
In my soul I can hear a shout                                 
De un corazón anhelante
Of a longing heart
Que repite a cada instante
That constantly repeats
Su deseo de querer
Its desire to love
Y en mis noches de delirio
And in my delirious nights
Siento correr por mis venas
I feel running through my veins
Un deseo que me quema
A burning decire
Y que me obliga a gritar
That forces me to scream
¡HAMBRE!!…
Hunger!
De sentir el fuego ardiente
To feel the burning fire
De un amor que sea inclemente
Of a love that is not merciful
Que me queme las entrañas
That will burn me inside

Even though the songs talk about despair and vengeance, these are the songs with which people fell in love, danced, sang, hummed and cried to.  Now having this in mind, let’s go to “Little Habana”. Let’s celebrate life, remember the sorrows and fall in love all over again!

Going into a bakery (well this is a very loose term because it has a bakery section; a restaurant; a takeout section; and at the front of the building, there is an outdoor section with a window, where they sell coffee) either in Little Havana, San Juan or the real Havana. It is like going into a wonderland - so many pastries, cakes, breads, sandwiches, nuggets and candies. Before you arrive to the bakery you can smell the bread; the air is permeated with that nutty sweet smell.  My typical morning breakfast order consists of Café con Leche (coffee with milk), Tostadas en Pan Criollo (toast made with baguette bread) and two Croquetas de jamòn (two ham croquettes).  Enjoying a simple morning breakfast, the smell of the coffee, the music and the heated political discussion in the background, yes I feel at home!  There is no such thing as reading your news paper in silence; it is an open discussion.  The man at the far west corner of the restaurant will make a comment on the news and a well animated chorus will respond.   If you pay attention to what’s happening outside you will notice that the TV is playing the news while a group of men are playing dominoes and discussing, arguing and talking back to the TV, without missing the rhythm of the game.   It is typical to have a window (this is an open area in which they sell coffee to the public)…standing room only!  The same individuals will be standing at the window for hours enjoying a tiny little cup of extra strong espresso coffee. I believe they just wet their lips and enjoy the coffee forever and ever.  Once in a while a bypasser will yell out “Is the Dictator dead yet?” and one of the guys playing Domino will respond “Hopefully today!” and that will revive the heated political discussion.  We don’t have a “Fiddler on the Roof” but we do have the Guitarist on Calle Ocho delighting us with the entire repertoire of the songs of the 50’s and 60’. Some will sing along, others will dance in their seats and the bolder will actually stand up and immerse themselves in the music.

When I travel I prefer to visit the off-the-path sites. I enjoy hanging out with the people that work, live and breathe in the area.  South Florida is a very transient area but has very distinct neighborhoods, full of personality and soul. As I stated before; I call it music!  It holds the identity of a country, the soul of its people and the way they view the world.  It is a single point of reference that unifies the people of a specific area; from rich to poor; no matter the color of your skin or your creed.  Even if you don’t realize, it is a single voice that tells your story to the world.

“HAMBRE”

            Hunger!De besar con ansia loca

            To kiss with demented eagernessQue me muerdan en la boca

            To be bitten on the lipsHasta hacérmela sangrar

            Until you make it blead
¡HAMBRE!!…

            Hunger!De un amor que me calcine

            From a love that will burn meQue con besos asesine

            And kisses that will kill Mi deseo y mi ansiedad

            My desires and my anxiousness

Fried Cow - Vaca Frita recipe

 

2 pounds flank steak
2 whole bay leaves
6 black pepper corns
3 tablespoons dry sherry
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium yellow onions, sliced
lemon wedges
2 medium green bell peppers, sliced

 

Seasoning rub
1 teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon onion powder
2 teaspoon salt

 

Place the steak in a cover pot with just enough water to cover. Add the bay leaves and peppercorns. Simmer covered until tender, about 1 ½ hours. Allow the steak to cool in the liquid, covered. It's common to place the entire covered pot in the fridge and proceed to frying the next day.

 

Mix the dry spices.

 

Cut the meat across the grain into serving size pieces. Pound with a meat mallet until increased in size by 25-50%. Rub each piece with a bit of the dry rub and splash with dry sherry.

 

Heat the olive oil in a skillet or griddle. Fry each piece of meat until it barely browns. Fry the onions and peppers also. Place all on a plate with the lemon wedges as a garnish.

Corn Fritters  

Frituritas de Maiz tierno, or fresh corn fritters

1 cup fresh corn kernels, ground to a pulp or 1 can of cream corn and ½ a can of corn kernels, ground to a pulp
1 egg, well beaten

½ teaspoon  vinegar
1/2 tsp anis seed, ground or pounded w/mortar and pestle
5 Tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
Oil for frying

Mix all the ingredients. If too liquid, add just a small amount of all-purpose flour and mix well. Drop in hot (375oF) frying oil a spoonful at a time.

Yautia Fritters (Frituras de Yautia) aka Malanga aka taro root

1 pound of Yautia
1 egg
1 clove of garlic
1 teaspoon of parsley
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon of vinegar

Wash and peel the yautia. Shred with a cheese shredder (grater).  Mix the rest of the ingredients into the shredded yautia batter.

Heat oil, when the oil is hot drop mix in by tablespoons. fry until golden brown.

Cuban Hamburger (Frita) recipe  

1 lb. lean ground beef

1 egg

1/2 tsp. paprika

1/4 cup milk

1 tsp mayo

2 tsp ketchup

½ tsp Worcestershire sauce

1/2 cup bread crumbs

1/4 tsp black pepper

2 tsp. salt

1 tsp ground onion

Soak bread crumbs in milk and mix all ingredients well.  Shape into small balls, place in refrigerator for about 2 hours to let the meat marinate with other ingredients.  Lightly grease grill or frying pan.  Fry meat, press to shape like hamburgers.  Serve in hamburger buns.

Serving tip: For better results, cut the bun with a large round cookie cutter, spread with ketchup, sprinkle with chopped onions if desired, serve with shoestring potatoes. 

serves 4

Guava Cheese Flan

1 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk
1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
5 eggs
1 can guava shells (1/4 of the syrup)

8 ounces (1 package) cream cheese, softened
1 tablespoon Vanilla Extract

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place sugar and water in 9-inch round cake pan. Stir until sugar is slightly dissolved. Place pan on stove on medium heat. Cook sugar about 10 minutes, without stirring, until sugar turns a golden to golden brown color. Use oven mitts to swirl pan, coating bottom and sides with caramel. Place pan on wire rack to cool and harden caramel slightly.

Meanwhile, place remaining ingredients in blender container; cover. Blend until smooth.

Pour mixture over cooled and hardened caramel in pan. Cover with foil. Place a large shallow baking pan in oven. Place cake pan in baking pan. Carefully pour hot water into baking pan so it comes halfway up side of cake pan. Bake 1 hour or until knife inserted in center comes out clean.

Remove cake pan from water bath. Cool on wire rack. Carefully loosen sides of custard from pan with a knife. Cover and refrigerate 3 hours or until chilled. May be chilled overnight.

To unmold, invert pan onto a large plate

  

Serves 8